4/11/2024 0 Comments Lego digital designer train wheels![]() ![]() the context would have been lost, especially if we called them an even more abbreviated #4, #5. If we just called them a "40 curve", "56 curve", etc. As a community we've settled into R40.R120 and beyond for curves because it makes intuitive sense. More importantly, the language that develops around the wheel names keeps the connection to the plates (again, the verbose "plate diameter"). That way the name has a direct explicit meaning and as a newbe you do not have to learn that you need to add. 5, so L would become "9.5" and the more verbose version would be "9.5 plate diameter". Naming the wheels accordingly to their actual diameter brings clarity and efficiency to their name. With the current naming I never really spent much time thinking about the diameter of the wheels, just the stud spacing necessary for a given size (stepping up by half studs every so often). You'd think this would be asking for trouble, but I run it primarily on r72+ and it doesn't have the issue.I like the general idea, but there is a level of secret-language if you use N to represent N.5. I have a 4-8-4 using XXL drivers, F-B-B-F, with O-Rings on all four flanged drivers. You only need 1 single wheel to be able to 'slip'.Īnother interesting fact is that you are less likely to run into this issue on wide-radius curves. In those cases, I actually found removing 1 O-ring and having a total of 3 fixed it. I have run into it on some locos running larger wheels, BBB Med or larger. I've not run into these issues with the small train wheels, actually. I don't have any locomotives or track set up, so I can't test this myself unfortunately. Hmm - if there's traction issues with replacement O-rings on one side only, maybe it would work better with O-rings being on opposite corners of the motor? Is there a difference in results between a train motor with new O-rings on all four wheels and one that has new O-rings on only one side (two wheels)? If there isn't any difference, I would run new O-rings on only one side since the wheels do need to slip inside a curve - they're connected through a solid axle but will be traveling different distances due to the curve. (Also, some info on aftermarket powering solutions (sbrick, fx brick, buwizz, etc would be nice) (If someone has experience with lubrication and bearings, please add some info!) ![]() That said, I'm just imagining what kind of performance you can get if you add in bearings and lubrication on top of all this. You can get a package of 40 O rings for under $10. In the past, I modified the Santa Fe Super Chief to work with power functions, and replacing those O rings allowed it to pull all 5 santa fe cars and a few emerald night cars with no issue.Īnd best of all, this isn't an expensive modification. I then replaced the O-rings on the 4 wheels with the sealing gaskets, and the difference was shocking: Not only could the tiny Disney Train tender push the Big Boy, but it moved reasonably fast, power right through tight lego curves, AND pull 3 train cars and drag the Disney train behind it all. The wheels just slipped in place and couldn't budge the big boy. For instance, I have a UP Big Boy that I tried to push with the tender from the Disney train (single PuP motor and battery box). ![]() Replace them with 14mm Inner Diameter, 17mm OD sealing gaskets, and watch the magic happen.īy simply replacing these O-rings, you get much more grip onto the track and it helps stops the wheels from slipping due to lack of weight. Remove the clear/grey o-rings on the train wheels on your motors. I now a lot of people here know this, and I made this same topic roughly 10 years ago (back when RC trains first came out) but I wanted to say it again. My first thing I would like to add is info on replacing O-rings! I know there are a few ways to get around these, and was hoping we could all chip in with some knowledge. I've been thinking about running long trains, and the limitations of lego train motors and other parts.
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